The Backyard Traveler: Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge

Some people look at Nevada's wide, open expanses and see nothing. Those in the know, however, view that same landscape and see a biological wonderland filled with unique plants, fish and animals.

One of the best places in the state to discover Nevada's more hidden life forms is the Ash Meadows Wildlife Refuge located in southwestern Nevada about 25 miles south of Lathrop Wells, off Nevada State Route 373.

To reach Ash Meadows, head south on Highway 95 through Tonopah. Lathrop Wells is located another two hours south of Tonopah on 95.

The first thing you notice about Ash Meadows is that it looks just like the popular perception of Nevada, i.e., acres of rolling hills occasionally populated by sagebrush, a stray juniper or a mesquite shrub. But there's much more to Ash Meadows.

The refuge has the greatest concentration of endemic species in the country. Some 27 species of plants, fish and animal life can only be found at Ash Meadows.

The refuge, which encompasses 24,000 acres, was originally part of a large Amargosa Valley alfalfa ranch, which was later used for cattle ranching.

In 1984, the Nature Conservancy purchased 12,000 acres for a refuge-largely to prevent development. A few years later, the area became a National Wildlife Refuge. In 1994, a small portion of the refuge, an area known as Devil's Hole, was incorporated into Death Valley National Park.

Ash Meadows was acquired by the federal government largely because of a tiny creature known as the Devil's Hole Pupfish. This inch-long, almost transparent fish is only found in Devil's Hole, which is a deep, narrow opening in the ground filled with natural spring water.

The Devil's Hole Pupfish is also an endangered species. About 90 percent of the species can be found within 20 feet of the water's surface, where they can spawn on a rock ledge and have access to sunlight.

Water usage in the Amargosa Valley is regulated to ensure that the water level in Devil's Hole doesn't drop. Scientists believe the springs in the Amargosa Valley have a common source so that any change in the area's water table, such as excessive pumping, can affect the pupfish habitat.

In addition to the Devil's Hole Pupfish, Ash Meadows has a half-dozen or so geothermal spring-fed pools and each boasts its own, unique species of pupfish. For example, the Ash Meadows Amargosa Pupfish thrives in Crystal Springs while the Warm Springs Pupfish can only be found in a pond known - surprise - as Warm Springs.

Each pool is believed to have been part of a larger body of water that eventually receded into smaller, separate ponds in which each subgroup of pupfish evolved differently.

Walking through the refuge is a remarkably, peaceful experience. A few hundred yards from the road it's not uncommon to spot wild horses and burros foraging in the area.

Crystal Springs is perfectly named with its sparkling, inviting clear waters. Standing on the grassy edge of the warm spring-fed pond (temperatures run about 85 degrees), which is about the size of a small swimming pool, you can see small bubbles rising from somewhere below, then gurgle to the surface.

Peering into the water you can see the tiny pupfish swimming around a rock ledge, looking like miniature, transparent sardines.

Among the remnants of the old cattle ranch are two larger manmade lakes, fed by overflow from the springs. On one, Crystal Lake, limited swimming and boating are allowed.

For information, contact Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge, (775) 372-5435, or Death Valley National Park, (760) 786-2331.

Richard Moreno is the author of "The Backyard Traveler," "The Backyard Traveler Returns," and "The Roadside History of Nevada" which are available at local bookstores.