The Backyard Traveler: Guardian of Golden Gate still keeps watch over the Bay

Over the past century-and-a-half, San Francisco's Fort Point has survived earthquakes, neglect, ignorance and even plans to tear it down.

The fort was built between 1853 and 1861 on the site of an earlier adobe fort known as El Castillo de San Joaquin, which had been erected by the Spanish between 1793 and 1794.

The three-tier fort, which cost about $2.8 million, was constructed by the U.S. Army to protect the San Francisco Bay from possible foreign invaders (there was great concern about this after the Gold Rush of 1849).

It was designed to be part of a three-point system of defense, with other forts proposed for Lime Point (on the north side of the Golden Gate Bridge) and Alcatraz Island.

The fort was designed to be imposing with outer walls that were five to seven feet thick and 90 arched gun rooms. It incorporated granite from China as well as more than eight million bricks.

The fort remained on armed alert during the Civil War with the U.S. Army placing 55 guns and 11 mortars within its casemates. Later, the Army installed massive Rodman guns, which were huge cannons that could reach targets as far as three miles away.

Unfortunately, almost as soon as it was completed, the fort became obsolete. The more powerful guns developed during the Civil War could easily destroy forts of its type.

By 1876, the fort was downsized, and by 1886, only a caretaker watched over the premises. During the next few decades, the fort was used sporadically as military barracks.

During the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, the south wall pulled two to six inches away from the rest of the fort. The Army once again abandoned the fort.

In 1914, the fort was refurbished for possible use as detention barracks, using inmate labor from Alcatraz, but Congress refused to authorize the use and the reconstruction was abandoned (although it did result in the repair of the south wall, which saved the fort from collapsing).

In the 1930s, planners of the Golden Gate Bridge proposed demolishing the fort, then decided it was a valuable national treasure and redesigned the bridge to span above the fort.

During World War II, the fort was again used by troops and a few anti-torpedo boat guns were placed atop its upper tier. After the war, however, the fort was abandoned yet again.

In 1968, legislation was finally introduced to create the Fort Point National Historic Site. The bill, which transferred control of the fort to the National Park Service, was signed into law in 1970.

Since then, the fort has been partially restored and interpretive displays placed in various sectors. Additionally, guided tours of the facility, cannon drills, and other special programs became available.

Today, visitors will find the fort at the northwest end of the San Francisco Presidio military complex, tucked underneath the Golden Gate Bridge just above sea level.

It remains an impressive sight: three stories of nearly solid red-brick walls, dotted with tiny cannon windows. The only entrance to the fort is a smallish sallyport on the south side.

Inside, there is a high, narrow courtyard, shaded much of the time. The arched rooms, heated only by small fireplaces, are at once elegant, because of the fine brickwork, and spartan. It is obvious this was a place built for defense and not comfort.

A well-stocked gift shop contains a fine collection of history books, posters, maps and other items.

To reach the fort, head to the north end of San Francisco into the Presidio. Drive west on Mason Street, then northwest on Long Avenue to Marine Drive, which leads to the fort.

Fort Point National Historic Site is part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. It is open daily, except Christmas and New Year's Day, from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. For information, call (415) 556-1693.

Richard Moreno is the author of "The Backyard Traveler," "The Backyard Traveler Returns," and "The Roadside History of Nevada" which are available at local bookstores.