Karen and I have been playing with this new/old cooking technique that we discovered on our trip to Santa Marquerita, Portofino on the Italian Riviera several years ago. They have a very unique way of cooking chicken and Karen and I thought passing this technique on to you would be interesting and a fun thing to try.
The chicken is cooked in an open wood/gas fired oven that gained popularity in the United States for cooking pizzas. Here we call them pizza ovens and mainly use them as such. However, in Italy, the restaurants are small and family operated so they use their equipment for many different aspects of their daily cooking routine.
One of the intriguing things about this technique is that the chicken is cooked in the oven between two pieces of granite or bricks. This technique sears and cooks the chicken faster than the traditional technique of roasting or using a rotisserie. Therefore, you need to throw out all preconceived ideas of how long to cook your chicken. Karen and I have been mastering this technique at some of our Sunday dinners and I believe we have the fundamentals down to where we can confidently pass them on to you.
First you will need to purchase two 12-by-18 inch slabs of granite. These will be difficult if not next to impossible to find if you go to places such as restaurant supply companies. Karen and I talked to one of Karen's tile and marble installers (Leon) and he cut us our slabs. What I recommend is go to Carson Masonry or some other similar supplier, and I am sure they would be happy to cut and sell you the granite.
The granite we used is the same as what is used for counter tops (half inch to three quarter inch thick). You can also use granite tiles (12 by 2 inches). They are big enough to cook one chicken, split. These work but not quite as good as the granite slabs because they do not have the weight. The granite tiles (quarter to half inch) can be easily found in any tile store and do not have to be custom cut.
Trying new techniques is a lot of fun so get out there and purchase what you need so your culinary adventure can begin.
To begin your adventure, I recommend purchasing a certified organic chicken such as Rosie's which can be found in Carson City at Raley's, Trader Joe's and Costco. Split it in half by cutting away the backbone piece. (Set this aside to make a chicken stock when winter comes. It's the beginning of a great soup.) Rinse thoroughly and pat dry.
At this time you need to start your barbeque, gas or charcoal is fine. Close the lid. When the coals are white and red hot, place your granite pieces on top of the grate. Heat for approximately 45 minutes. The barbeque thermometer should read 450 degrees F plus.
While you wait for the grill and granite pieces to get hot, season the chicken. I start by rubbing it with finely chopped garlic and olive oil. Sprinkle it with fresh ground pepper and kosher salt and finally with fresh herbs from the garden. Karen and I have been using lemon balm, however, any fresh herb such as rosemary, thyme, basil or oregano would be excellent.
Special note of caution: You will be putting the chicken between the two slabs/tiles so be sure to use heavy oven mitts to pick up the slab/tile that will be placed on top of the chicken. They will be extremely hot and heavy.
Place the chicken bone side down on one of the slabs/tiles and drizzle a little bit of extra virgin olive oil on top then place the other slab/tile on top.
We have found that Rosie's is a large chicken and it takes approximately 20 to 30 minutes to cook. There is no need to turn the chicken over as you normally would do on the barbeque. After about 20 minutes I start to check it for doneness. You will notice that it has a nice golden color.
When you check the chicken after about 20 minutes and are using a gas fired barbeque, turn it off. The slabs/tiles will retain heat long after the chicken is done. It takes approximately a 25 percent less time to cook the chicken so keep a close eye on it.
When Karen and I remove the chicken from the barbeque, we immediately squeeze fresh lemon or lime juice over it while it is still sizzling hot and also add a little more olive oil. Let sit for 10 minutes then cut into serving size pieces (leg, thigh, breast). The chicken in its simplicity and the way it is cooked has a clean, distinct flavor and the meat is moist and tender.
Do not attempt to clean the slabs/tiles immediately after using. They will be too hot to handle. Let them cool down so you can comfortably handle them without burning yourself.
Don't be afraid to try this technique with other cuts of meat or grilling vegetables. Karen and I have used it for pork chops, steaks, zucchini and other firm squashes.
As always we want you to enjoy your dining experience while trying this new technique. The final results will be astounding.
• Charlie Abowd is the owner and chef at Adele's. He and his wife, Karen, have lived in Carson City since 1980. Charlie is a fourth-generation restaurateur..