On the Trail: More than Burning Man at Black Rock

If you are part of the Burning Man mob heading for the Black Rock Desert near Gerlach later this month, you might want to enjoy more than just the alternate lifestyles offered by the event.

There are two kinds of things you might want to see. Take them in before Burning Man or after, and miss the traffic jams in or out of Gerlach. During the event, organizers don't promote in-and-out access, but for $10 you can get a pass.

The two other things to do besides trying the ravioli at Bruno's Country Club in Gerlach are chasing historic natural hot springs and hiking.

The Black Rock National Conservation Area was created in 2000. With the exception of the High Rock Canyon Road and other corridors, the High Rock Canyon area is within portions of three designated wilderness areas.

The 16-mile-long canyon is a fine place for hiking, mountain biking, wildlife viewing and horseback riding. The emigrant signature sites and Post Office Cave are about five miles from the east entrance of the canyon.

This is wilderness country, and except for Stevens Camp, there are no facilities of any kind. When the road is dry, cars can travel a gravel road to the cabin at Stevens Camp. The hike up Upper High Rock Canyon just west of Stevens Camp enters a unique desert oasis. High Rock Canyon today is very rugged and can be driven only in high clearance four-wheel vehicles with good off-road tires by experienced and well-equipped explorers.

Hot springs

Use care around all hot springs. A slip can be fatal.

The water in Double Hot Springs is about 190 F, sometimes hitting more than 200 degrees. The water in the streams carrying runoff from the springs is nearly as hot. In addition, the banks of the springs are very steep and slippery. If you fall into the springs, you cannot get out in time to avoid serious injury. People have died after falling into the springs. Do not dip your hand or put your foot into the springs to test the temperature. Use care when walking on the paths around the springs.

Keep dogs on a leash and children close around Double Hot Springs. Dogs will jump into the springs and almost always die when they do. Dogs have scalded their tongues and burned their feet by drinking from or crossing the streams.

Other hot springs in the area are not as hot as Double Hot Springs, but the temperature of most hot springs can vary greatly. Always test the temperature of a hot spring (except Double Hot Springs) before getting in. Do not even test the temperature of Double Hot Springs.

For Double Hot Springs take Highway 34 out of Gerlach about three miles. Look for two stone pillars on the edge of the playa. Enter the playa and you'll see tracks. Stay on the tracks and soon you'll see a large black rock, for which the desert gets its name. The drive is about 25 miles across the playa. You'll hit Black Rock Hot Springs but keep going. Another 5 miles and you'll spot the green that marks Double Hot Springs.

The Black Rock Hot Springs are usually around 150 degrees but that is too hot for use. But you can enjoy the sight of some clear blue water in the middle of the desert here.

Hiking and camping

High Rock Canyon on Highway 34 past the Calico Mountains is one of nature's masterpieces. A narrow defile cut some 800 feet deep through layers of dark lava and multi-colored volcanic ash, it can be traversed only by high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicles except between Feb. 1 and the second week in May when the road is closed to protect wildlife. Hiking is allowed year round.

Vehicle camping is restricted to primitive, designated sites only. This is probably the best place in Black Rock-High Rock country to view bighorn sheep and raptors. The High Rock Canyon Wilderness is painted with layers of white, gray, orange and brown. The bright green of the canyon floors and pockets on the walls contrast with the gray-green of sagebrush.

A 360-degree panorama of valleys, terraces and mountain ranges open up vistas 60 miles in all directions. The wilderness area's northeast border hits the abrupt edge of High Rock Canyon.

Calico Mountains Wilderness is a rock hounding, hunting and day hiking area in the wilderness. Box, Fly and Cherry Creek canyons provide a setting for day-hiking, backpacking, photography, wildlife and wild horse viewing opportunities. Hunting for mule deer, antelope, and game birds is popular in the area.

Oh, yeah, the main event: Burning Man

Yes, I'll be at Burning Man for the fifth time and probably the last; you can only eat so much ground dirt and call it fun. The event is Aug. 31-Sept. 7, with the burn Saturday, Sept. 5. Ticket sales are open now with entry pegged at $300. Theme this is year is "Evolution." About 40,000 people are expected. Call (415) TO FLAME for info, or see burningman.com.

• Contact Sam at 841-7818 or sambauman@att.net.