Cathleen Allison/Nevada Appeal
Celebrating the Abowd Family Reunion, Karen and I thought we would resurrect one of our Middle Eastern recipes and share it with you.
Today's recipe is an interesting endeavor into some spices of which most of us are not aware. After preparing it at home together, Karen and I thought that this recipe would be a great one to share with all of you.
Sumac is an interesting spice used widely in the Middle East. My first encounter with it was about 10 years ago when customer and friend Fred Scarpello dropped by the restaurant after some traveling and told me about a great lamb dish he had that was spiced with sumac. He gave me some to play with, and Karen and I did so at home. We quickly fell in love with it. The spice is very tart and clean; it is not overpowering.
Used with lamb, it's a great accent with the tartness cutting the characteristic gaminess. It's like adding lemon juice to seafood.
Even though I am of Middle Eastern descent, my only experience with sumac was as a blend of other spices - a mixture called Zahtar. The real chore with sumac is finding a source. We get ours from a couple of delicatessens in New York: Zabars, www.zabars.com and Kalustyan's, www.kalustyans.com.
For us food nuts, these two famous Middle Eastern delicatessens have a plethora of items that are impossible to find locally. They are great sources and well worth the time spent to access their various products.
In this dish, I like to use a lamb loin chop or T-bone, approximately 11⁄2 to 2 inches thick, for two or three servings.
My wine recommendation is a red zinfandel such as Shenandoah Vineyards, either 2002 or 2003, which would make a great match. Check with your local wine monger for their recommendations on other zinfandel choices.
Karen and I are sure this will be a dinner to remember. As always enjoy, enjoy, enjoy!
• Charlie Abowd is the owner and chef at Adele's. He and his wife, Karen, have lived in Carson City since 1980. Charlie is a fourth-generation restaurateur.
Rub for lamb:
2 tablespoons sumac
2 tablespoons fresh mint, finely chopped
2 tablespoons or 4 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 teaspoon each salt and pepper, or to taste
1 teaspoon olive oil (does not have to be extra virgin)
Combine all ingredients in a bowl. This mixture will easily spice 10 to 12 lamb chops. Rub on both sides and let sit at room temperature for 2 hours.
When cooking the lamb chops, make sure your barbecue is hot (medium-high to high). Cook approximately 5 to 7 minutes per side (for medium-rare). Be sure to watch carefully, as the cooking time will be different for each type of barbecue. There is no way to actively control the heat on a barbecue so that it is consistent.
Sauce:
2 cups pure pomegranate juice
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons unsweetened butter
2 tablespoons flour
1⁄4 cup zinfandel wine (the rest is for the cooks!)
1⁄2 teaspoon fresh pepper
1⁄2 teaspoon kosher salt
1⁄4 cup finely shaved mint for garnish
Mint sprigs or large leaves for plate decorations
To prepare the sauce, in a medium skillet add the pure pomegranate juice (we've been able to find it at the local grocery stores, so if not sure what you are looking for, ask a grocery clerk).
Over medium heat, reduce juice by 50 percent, then add lemon juice, ground pepper and salt. Reduce again by 50 percent. Set aside for 15 minutes.
In a separate pan, add unsweetened butter and melt over medium-low heat. When melted and bubbly, add 2 tablespoons of flour.
Mix together with a whisk until thoroughly incorporated. Add the dry red wine (a red zinfandel is my pick). Mix thoroughly; it should be very pasty.
Slowly add the pomegranate reduction.
When complete, you should have a nice, silky sauce. If it seems too thick, add a little more zinfandel to the mixture. At the very end, add salt and pepper to taste and 1 flat teaspoon of Sumac. Simmer for approximately 10 minutes, and it's done.
Set aside until needed.
If you make the sauce well in advance and need to reheat, do so over very low heat. I like to garnish the chops a the end with finely shaved fresh mint, pine nuts and maybe a sprig of mint leaves.