Old dog, new tricks: Fresh chutneys keep things spicy

Back in 1984 when I first got out of culinary school, I took a job cooking dinner at a place down in the financial district of San Francisco. The chef, besides having been the culinary director for Berringer Winery, had come from the much revered, Old Poodle Dog, a San Francisco institution that had just closed. It was customary to accept low wages in turn for working for well-credentialed chefs, and based on how little I was being paid this guy was of the highest caliber.

One of the things that he liked to keep around was homemade chutney. All kinds of chutneys. And because serving dinner in an area where everyone went home at 5 p.m. was proving to be a bad idea, I made a lot of chutneys. Except for the technique (which we'll get into in a minute) and a curiosity for the place named after a dog, I hadn't given the place much thought. Until a couple of weeks ago.

While researching early San Francisco restaurants and their potential connection to Virginia City, I came across a detailed history of the Old Poodle Dog.

Originally opened in 1849 and considered by many to be the first real restaurant in the City, it was called Poulet d'Or (the Golden Chicken). Miners passing through on their way to the goldfields in California and Nevada could get a decent meal of soup, local fish, carved meats, salad and fresh fruit, all for 15 cents.

Since these early patrons were not particularly worldly, they took to calling it the Poodle Dog, some say because of the French family that operated it and some say because of their poodle that hung out at the restaurant. It was probably because it was easier than the French pronunciation. Either way it stuck.

For 135 years the venerable restaurant survived earthquakes, fires, Prohibition and several changes of ownership, changing locations when she had to but always commanding respect in San Francisco's galaxy of starred restaurants. Ever heard of Louis dressing for seafood salads? The creation of chef/owner Louis Coutard.

The demise of the Poodle Dog according to this article was in 1984 when the owners hired a chef from one of the wineries in Napa (like Berringer?) who made the place "economically unviable through his nouvelle cuisine and labor intensive menu." My old boss? Not the connection I was expecting to find.

This trio of recipes includes some of the more popular ones that we made, and shows the diversity as well as technique. Most commonly thought of as a condiment for Indian food, these days the definition is much broader. Sweet, sour and at least a little hot tend to be the requirements, and therefore variations can be found in almost any cuisine on the planet.

Fundamentally, you take equal parts sugar and vinegar, some fruit and its juice, ginger and chilies. Cook it until syrupy and refrigerate. You can use stone fruits like peaches or plums, fresh or frozen or dried fruits like apricots or figs. Vegetables such as tomatoes, fresh corn or tomatillos also work equally well. The lemongrass recipe might seem to be a stretch until you see that it passes the sweet, sour, hot criteria. Big flavor is the common thread in all chutneys.

If you are among the unfortunate that have only tried the stuff in a jar, fear not. These recipes are easy and will light up whatever you serve them with. And unlike the jar, they actually taste like what's in them.

Tomato Chutney

Makes about 3 cups

Good with fried foods like fritters or hushpuppies. Think of it as designer ketchup.

2⁄3 cup sugar

2⁄3 cup cider vinegar

3 cups diced tomatoes in juice, chopped a little

2 stalks celery, diced

1 medium red onion, diced

1 tablespoon garlic, minced

2 tablespoons peeled ginger, minced (packed)

1⁄2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 1⁄2 teaspoons ground cumin

salt to taste

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

In a dry sauce pan, caramelize the sugar until amber in color.

Immediately add the vinegar, stirring as you pour " you don't want to breath the steam. Continue cooking and stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Add all of the remaining ingredients except the salt, cilantro and half of the ginger. Cook over medium heat, partially covered and stirring frequently until syrupy but not too thick " about 15 minutes. It will continue to thicken as it cools. Add the remaining ginger and taste for salt. Allow to cool then add the cilantro. The chutney will keep for a few days refrigerated. If you do not use it within the first day, don't add the cilantro until you are ready to serve.

Apricot-Pinion Chutney

Makes about 2 cups

Works with lamb, pork, or grilled chicken. Try it on Easter ham.

1 pound dried apricots, quartered

1⁄2 cup dark raisins

4 cups boiling water

2⁄3 cup cider vinegar

2⁄3 cup sugar

1 small, dry chili (de arbol or New Mexican)

1⁄3 cup pinenuts toasted

In a medium heat-proof bowl combine the apricots, raisins and boiling water. Allow to steep for 10 minutes. Drain the fruit reserving one cup of the liquid.

In a small saucepan bring the fruit, reserved liquid, vinegar, sugar and chilies to a simmer. Cook for about 30 minutes, partially covered, stirring frequently. It should be thick and the fruit tender. Remove from heat, allow to cool. Stir in the pinenuts just before serving and taste for salt. Will keep for two to three weeks, covered and refrigerated.

Coconut Chutney with Lemongrass

About 1 cup

Add to steamed mussels or clams, fluff with steamed rice or spoon over grilled fish.

1 cup grated coconut, unsweetened

4 tablespoons minced fresh lemongrass

2 tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1⁄4 cup coarse chopped roasted peanuts

1⁄4 cup fresh lime juice

4 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons chopped mint

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

1 Serrano chili, minced.

To mince lemongrass, cut off about one inch of the larger end of the stalk and discard. Cut off about three inches from the larger end of the remaining stalk. Remove the outer leaves until you hit the moist center. This is the part you want to mince. Combine with the remaining ingredients. Will keep for three days covered and refrigerated.

- Brian Shaw and his wife Ardie own the Cafe del Rio, 394 S. C Street in Virginia City.