Michelle Palmer: Seared duck breast with port cherry sauce (recipe)

Duck breast, seared! There is nothing like crispy, seared, perfectly-cooked duck breast with port cherry sauce. This method of cooking was done by French chef André Daguin.

He was the first that cooked duck breast this way in the late 1950s. He prepared a magret like a steak and served it medium-rare.

A Mullard duck is a cross between the Pekin and the Muscovy duck. The Mullard is raised for foie gras, so its breast meat is thicker and more flavorful than that of other duck breeds.

Robert Daley, an American journalist wrote an article for the New York Times stating how delicious Chef Daguin’s technique of rare duck breast was in the 1960s, which inadvertently became extremely popular in the U.S.

Duck and chicken are both poultry meats that are commonly enjoyed by people around the world. However, there is a distinct difference when it comes to how these two meats can be cooked and consumed.

While duck can be cooked to a rare or medium-rare state, chicken must always be well-cooked to ensure food safety. Chicken meat typically contains higher levels of harmful bacteria compared to duck meat, primarily because of differences in their raising and processing practices.

Chickens are commonly raised in larger numbers in tighter spaces, which increases the chances of bacterial contamination. Additionally, chicken meat often contains higher levels of salmonella and campylobacter naturally, making it riskier to consume undercooked or raw.

Typically raised in different conditions compared to chickens, resulting in a lower risk of bacterial contamination. Consequently, consuming rare or medium-rare duck meat is considered safe, provided it is sourced from reputable suppliers and handled properly during the preparation process.

Ingredients

2 cups port wine

2-1-pound duck breasts with skin on, pounded 1-inch thick

2 shallots small diced

2 tablespoons butter

1 ½ tablespoons sherry vinegar

¾ cup ruby port wine

½ cup chicken low sodium stock

1 teaspoon kosher salt

½ teaspoon pepper

½ cup fresh cherries

¼ cup creme fraiche

1 teaspoon orange zest

¼ cup orange juice

Directions

Scoring the duck breast on the fat side (see note * below).

Prior to marinating, in a glass vessel with edges pour port wine liberally over the breast allowing it to marinate refrigerated overnight.

Pat dry, liberally season both sides of the duck breast with kosher salt, freshly ground pepper, massage it in. Then sear fat side down over medium heat in an oven safe frying pan (I use cast iron) for 12 minutes.

Place uncovered in preheated 375 degrees oven for 12 minutes. Remove from oven and rest lightly covered while making cherry sauce. In a one-quart saucepan sauté shallots in butter; add sherry vinegar, ruby port wine, dried cherries, salt and pepper.

Bring to a boil then simmer for 15 minutes. Add crème fraiche, orange zest, and orange juice; stir till all blended. Cut the duck breast on an angle to resemble a deck of cards; make a nice puddle of cherry sauce on warmed dinner plate top with duck breast. Enjoy!

*The trick to scoring is to score deep enough to go through the fat but not too deep in that you hit the flesh of the duck breast. Be sure to use a nice sharp knife when scoring.

The difference is quite appreciable from a dull knife. Scoring the fat like this increases the surface area and allows it to render more easily in the hot skillet. A scored duck breast will also render more fat. You’ll see why duck fat is such a delicacy.

Michelle Palmer is co-executive chef with her fiancée’ Karl with the Historical Preservation Society Thunderbird Tahoe.