Old dog, new tricks: Fresh chutneys keep things spicy

Back in 1984 when I first got out of culinary school, I took a job cooking dinner at a place down in the financial district of San Francisco. The chef, besides having been the culinary director for Berringer Winery, had come from the much revered, Old Poodle Dog, a San Francisco institution that had just closed. It was customary to accept low wages in turn for working for well-credentialed chefs, and based on how little I was being paid this guy was of the highest caliber.