Nevada Traveler: Virginia City’s old-time saloons

“There are in Virginia City about one hundred saloons, all of which have their customers.” 

— The Big Bonanza by Dan De Quille.

Nevada has always had an appreciation of barkeeps and their places of business. De Quille’s more famous contemporary, Mark Twain, in fact, wrote in his book, “Roughing It,” that “the saloonkeeper held a shade higher rank than any other member of society.”

So, it’s not an exaggeration to say that in most mining camps, one of the first businesses to open was often a saloon.

If Dan De Quille’s estimate regarding the number of saloons in Virginia City in the mid-1870s is remotely accurate – and according to some sources, it might even be a bit conservative – that would mean there was roughly one saloon for every 200 people in the community.

These days, there aren’t 100 saloons in Virginia City, but there are several with bloodlines that stretch back to the Comstock’s colorful past. Most of these hardy survivors can be found on C Street, the town’s main artery and business district (also called State Route 341).

While each serves similar types of refreshments, what makes them unique is their ambience and, in some cases, quirky gimmicks to make you want to visit. These can range from an allegedly deadly card table to a mural made of thousands of silver dollars.

Among the oldest and most colorful is the Delta Saloon, said to have been in operation since 1876. The Delta, at 18 S. C St., is one of the largest bars in town and can be a bit boisterous with its rows of clanking slot machines. But it has a comfortable honky-tonk atmosphere with wood-paneled walls, Victorian lamps, and a nice brass bar.

A visit to the Delta should also include a visit to the famed Suicide Table, a 19th century faro table (a card game) that allegedly was responsible for the deaths of several men. Apparently, the deceased were unlucky gamblers who lost heavily while playing at the table and committed suicide.

Across the street from the Delta is the Bucket of Blood Saloon. The Bucket of Blood, which claims to also date back to about 1876, often features live music as well as a great view via its back window of nearby Sugar Loaf Mountain and the Dayton Valley.

Up the street is the venerable Silver Queen which is notable for its wall-size painting of a woman whose dress is composed of 3,261 silver dollars (with a couple of dozen gold coins for a belt). The Queen also offers slot machines, an upstairs dance hall and a wedding chapel.

An entirely different experience can be found at the Ponderosa Saloon, located in the former Bank of California building at 106 S. C St. In addition to the usual libations, the Ponderosa has a fun, guided mine tour. A shaft has been dug from the rear of the building that leads to a portion of one of the old Comstock mines.

Another Virginia City establishment with a historic pedigree is the Old Washoe Club. This old-time saloon, said to have been built in 1875, traces its origins to a Virginia City drinking society whose members were millionaires. The club, at 112 S. C St., has an unusual spiral staircase, listed as the world's longest circular stairs without a supporting pole.

There are, of course, many other Virginia City saloons, each with some type of claim to fame, so feel free to explore them all, if your liver can take it.

For information about Virginia City’s classic saloons, visit www.visitvirginiacitynv.com/virginia-city-saloons.