Changes in fish farming keep salmon on the table

What's going on with the commercial fishing industry these days? My fish guy just told me that all commercial salmon fishing from Vancouver to Mexico has been banned for the next two years due to overfishing, a problem that seems to be affecting the whole planet. But there is hope, due to some rather ingenious farming methods which address the problems which have made "farm raised" on the package the skull-and-crossbones equivalent.

The bad rap for fish farming has to do with crowding. Too many fish in too little water means they have to be fed antibiotics to cut down on disease. Also, the concentration of waste tends to pollute the water for other fish and people. W.C. Fields was right.

And finally, there is the possibility of alien species escaping and competing with the local fish for resources, like we had in some of our lakes with the trout.

In Scotland, they have developed a method of allowing the salmon to swim into chosen lochs, closing off the opening with nets, then fishing as demand dictates. The natural purging of the water in the lochs addresses the contamination issue, and the salmon would have gone there anyway, so no competition with the local fish.

The Hawaiians were fish farming clear back in the early 1800s during the reign of King Kamehameha. Today, located almost over the same site, a company called Kona Blue is farming Amber Jack with promising results.

Founded by a marine biologist and an aeronautical engineer, their system consists of a 65-foot tower surrounded by the pens which are anchored to the ocean floor. By pumping air or water into the tower, the pens can be raised or lowered for harvesting. Because they are located far offshore in the natural swift-moving currents, the water stays clean.

When you talk about sustainable, it has to apply to economics as well as environment. For the average Joe like you and me, the Kona Blue is a little pricey. The Scottish salmon sold under the name "Loch Dewart" is more reasonable. And Costco sells a decent wild filet (frozen) for around $7.50 a pound.

The little burgers in today's recipe are easy to make and can be prepared along with the sauces up to a day prior to service. Don't worry about them sticking to your grill. They won't. And don't be afraid that they are the same as the dreaded salmon croquette. They aren't. My mother's version using canned salmon complete with cartilage would strike horror into the hearts of me and my brother. A form of edible punishment. If your childhood was similarly marred, you can just use a nice four-ounce slice of the fish without chopping. Just as good.

Either way, do something good for yourself and the ecology. Go wild.

Wild Salmon Sliders with cilantro mayo and bread and butter pickle relish

Makes six